Suddenly you're in this enclosure, a green room, and the wave has broken completely over you. If you want, you can yodel or yell and the noise bounces off the side of the walls. You go on like this for a while, then you go flying out of the other end of this tube into daylight.
The wave threw a sheet of water over my head and engulfed me. Then for a split second the whole scene froze forever in my mind. There I was, in that liquid green room...
Some West Covina barney dropped in on me and I was like, "Meet on the beach, kook!"
AnonymousQuoted in Surfing: A Year in Pictures Day by Day, (Jim Heimann, 2014)